Dabon8rr
PROhace 57 minutos
 | | Localización | Houston, Estados Unidos | | Idioma | English | | Coleccionando | por tipo | | Colección | | | Clasificación | # 1,019 | | Tipos de moneda | 4,945 | | Países | 293 | | Lista de intercambio | | | Intercambios en curso | 1 | | Registrarse | Oct 26, 2023 (hace 2 años) |
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Sobre Mí
Greetings from Texas, USA! I am a fairly new (less than 10 years) collector. I really got interested in coins during the Covid era when I took up the hobby of metal detecting and started finding a lot of interesting coins, jewelry, and other treasures.
I consider myself a student of collecting, as well as a student of life in general. I am nearing retirement age and thus my collecting budget is limited, but I have had a lot of luck finding good value in the coins I've purchased / collected thus far.
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COIN SWAPS - Please don't ask to start a swap unless you've read ALL of the info below.
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GENERAL INFO AND INTERESTS:
My primary collection interests are world coin types and varieties. I also collect US coins by type, but the only US coins I'm missing are considered challenging to collect without deep pockets. That said, I'll entertain almost anything if there is something intriguing about a coin.
Though I've been collecting for several years, I'm just starting out with swaps, and I'm mainly doing it to fill a few gaps in my collection while simultaneously getting rid of a large accumulation of mostly common world coins. I have had a lot of reluctance in posting my dupes and offering to do swaps mainly because I don't really care if I swap them for stuff I need or simply offer them on eBay at a bulk price. But at least for the rest of 2026 I plan to offer what I have for swap. After that I'm likely to pull my swap list down and just sell whatever's left in bulk lots on eBay.
If you are collecting by date and MM, I will likely have hundreds or even thousands of potential world coin fills for you. If you're collecting by type, please understand that's what I'm doing as well so it will be much tougher to find a significant number of swaps on your list that interest me unless you have a lot of types that I don't have.
I'm not trying to profit or gain significant value in my swaps. Most of my coins are lower-value, base-metal, and fairly common. The silver listed on my swap list is likely to be "junk" silver, and worth little more than spot ASW.
I'm not one to haggle over a few cents in value, and I'm OK being a little on the short end of swap value if you're being reasonable on your prices. That said, if you're trying to profit or recover what you overpaid for a coin by swapping it at much higher than its market value, then please just move on.
Coins on my swap list may be available for purchase, but only from US-based members - same as with swaps. Considering it now costs over $50 to ship a small box outside of the US, it's just NOT worth the trouble to me. Then there are the US regulations against sending US coins/currency to other countries. Strictly speaking, it's illegal. For world coins, it might be legal but the cost is still higher than it's worth in most cases.
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SILVER VS. BASE METAL:
Please don't ask me to swap silver for base-metal coins regardless of either's value. In general, I only want to swap silver for silver of equal value. If, on the other hand, you want to offer me silver coins for my non-silver coins, I will likely be agreeable, but that's up to you. Silver prices are very volatile at present (as I'm sure you are aware) and I don't want either of us to feel like we got shafted on an imbalanced silver/base metal transaction. If we keep values fairly level between silver we exchange, then we both have a similar risk or reward potential.
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GRADING:
My swap list grades will be my best estimate, but I have no formal training on grading - just the usual tools available to most collectors like NGC/PCGS grading books and online resources. One day I will attend the ANA coin grading classes in Colorado (bucket list item) but for now, I'm still a novice grader.
I am not always able to spot cleaned / problem coins, especially if the cleaning is light or happened long ago. That said, most of the coins I plan to offer for swap don't have values that would be impacted by light or long-past cleanings. Most coins will be circulated and will be graded accordingly, and not noted as "cleaned" unless it's obvious to me. Holed / scratched / damaged coins will be noted as such in listings, so be sure to click the "i" in the circle if you see it on my swap listing. That's where you'll see notes about a problem coin.
If I'm not sure what grade a coin should get between two possibilities, I will usually choose the lower grade. Also, if I list multiple of a coin in the same date/MM, I am grouping ALL of those coins under the most common grade that would apply. If you swap with me, I'll give you the best available coin from among the dupes I have on hand but in no case will it be a lower grade than what I have listed (again, by my estimate). If I exhaust all the listed grades (or higher) then I'll update the listing to reflect the best available grade.
IF IN DOUBT about a coin's grade or condition, ask to see a photo of the coin!
Sometimes toning is hard to distinguish from the earliest stages of oxidation or corrosion, especially on base metal coins. I generally won't list corroded or PVC-damaged coins on my swap list unless they're scarce or the damage is very minor, but expect toning on coins. Toning doesn't usually impact grading and I won't usually downgrade a coin just for toning. An XF coin is XF based on wear and surface details, not on color or level of toning.
I expect coins I receive in swap to reflect good-faith market-agreeable grading estimates, especially for coins with higher numismatic value. Don't call a coin UNC if it's circulated but shiny. There are plenty of online resources to help someone assign a fair and market-agreeable grade to a coin.
I'm not usually too fussed about cleaned coins except for high-grade specimens or coins with a high numismatic value. A cleaned VG-VF coin doesn't bother me too much unless it's harshly cleaned. I may be OK with impaired proofs if the coin is something that I'm missing and the swap value reflects the impaired state of the coin.
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SWAP LIST PRICES
If you have a lot of VF and lower coins on your swap list with red prices (i.e. they're priced higher than UCoin's calculated average for an XF grade of that coin) then you're overpricing those coins. Check eBay comps for completed sales, NGC/PCGS pricing, etc., to sanity check your swap list prices. If I look at your swap list prices and see mostly red numbers, odds are I'll just take a pass on a swap.
I understand that UCoin is a website operated in a country other than the US, and UCoin suggested XF prices can be very different in Europe than they go for in the US market. Since I'm only swapping with US collectors, the US market price is the one that matters most to me. A clad XF US state quarter might fetch a dollar or two in Germany, and UCoin's suggested pricing will reflect that, but in the US it's just a quarter that's worth - you guessed it- 25 cents. Same with modern small dollars. NIFCs might be worth a bit more than face, but mostly they're a dollar unless they're truly MS/UNC.
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...AND IN CONCLUSION...
Again, this is a lot to digest, and it may seem that I have a lot of "rules" about swapping, especially for someone that's just starting out. However, if you understand my perspective, and freely share yours, then the odds of a successful trade are much better than if we have misaligned expectations.
Feel free to message me with any questions. But, if you've made it this far and you still want to start a swap, just message me and we can get a conversation going. From there, who knows? :)
